Today’s visit starts out a little differently because I found an interesting new tool to play with. Thanks to this article, I was able to learn how to download all of my Google Maps history data – anywhere my phone tells Google I’ve been over the past several years was downloaded to my computer. Then I uploaded it to another site to create a heatmap – a map of Toronto that shows where I have and have not been and then grades those places I’ve been from “cold to hot” in terms of how often I’ve been there. I’m surprised at all of the gaps.
I take this map and then compare it to the map of Toronto libraries to find a library in an area I’ve never been and so I come up with the St. Clair / Silverthorne library and head out the door. As usual, I am slow getting out the door and by the time I make it to the neighbourhood, I have one thing on my mind and it isn’t the library: it’s food. Luckily signs point to finding good food!
I choose the second one in the background, Banh Cuon Pho Ga. I know what Pho Ga is – pho (a Vietnamese soup) made with chicken – it’s delicious. But I’ve not heard of Banh Cuon. Before I check I resolve that that’s what I’m going to have.
It’s one of my favourite sorts of restaurants – basic and unassuming. There are specials written on the wall in Vietnamese but I don’t know what those are either.
I order the Banh Cuon with sausage and “cupcake”. I’m very curious how a cupcake might fit in with mostly savoury Vietnamese food. All the more reason to get it. Maybe it will be an interesting dessert. The dish comes out really quickly.
It is a funny coincidence that I was talking about ghavan / neer dosa with Saumiya as I rode the streetcar over because here was a similar dish from a completely different region of the world. Ghavan is a Konkan (Maharashtran) style pancake made with rice flour also called neer dosa – and other names I can’t remember for similar dishes from Chhattisghar and Kerala), Banh Cuon is a steamed rice pancake. And just like ghavan, it is often served with savoury sides. In this case there was nuoc mam – a mixture of fish sauce, sugar, and chilli on the side and they also brought over this little bit of heaven:
When the waiter brought it over I was so happy. I didn’t know it was coming or even exactly what it was, but I saw those red and green flakes. Those are fresh chillis. The white is garlic. There may have been a tiny bit of fish sauce in here as well. It was deliciously spicy.
Also on top of the Banh Cuon was lettuce, holy basil, bean sprouts, a little coriander, and fried shallots. It was delicious.
But what about the cupcake, you might be wondering. Well wait no more. Here it is – it was cut in to pieces and served on the side.
This is not what I expected at all. It is crispy on the outside but softer on the inside and savoury with a bit of shrimp inside and a lot of things I couldn’t place but I love it. It is especially delicious dipped in to the nuoc mam. I don’t know if this is how it’s meant to be eaten but it works for me so I go with it.
I gobble the whole plate up greedily and the whole thing was only $9.00. There are few places in Toronto where you can get a meal for under $10 but this is one of them. I will definitely be coming back here sometime as there are a few other dishes on the menu that I have had before and other things in reviews I read later that sounded amazing. Their duck and bamboo soup tops that list.
Out I go to the library. I walk around and I can’t find it. Finally I look at Google Maps again to see if I was in the right place and I follow it to exactly where it is. And I see why I couldn’t see it before. It’s closed.
I really need to check before I go. This is not the first time I’ve gone to a library that was closed for expansion and renovations. On the other hand, how cool is it that not only does our city have 100 libraries, but they’re working so hard to keep them in great shape that you never know when one you’re planning on going to will be closed?
But now I’m in the neighbourhood so it’s time to walk around and see what this area is about.
The first thing I notice is this is a much more openly religious area. There are many people of all religions in this city but generally speaking people are quiet about it. I should have noticed it when I took the picture of the restaurants and was standing in front of a large storefront church. I definitely noticed it on the window of this second hand store which was sadly closed.
And I really noticed it on this sign – the likes of which I have seen little of outside the US South.
I walk further, past a guy in a curly blonde wig selling knockoff sneakers on the street and something catches my eye:
It’s a flea market. Some of these can be really interesting. We went to one on another library visit and actually went back there again last weekend. The weekend before Sage and I tried one closer to home but it was more of a bust as it only seemed to have jewelery, mobile phone stores and IP TV salespeople. But I thought I’d go in and check. Sometimes the food stalls alone can be worth checking out.
In I go There are a lot of computer sellers, mobile phone sellers, and the like as well as a whole bunch of different clothing sellers. There are also a couple of places that looked like thrift stores with all manner of goods inside and these are really intriguing.
But I don’t see anything that really speaks to me. The place is huge and I’m finding myself getting lost as I wander until I locate a map that shows that there is, in fact, a food court. I head right over.
I settle on Kavita’s for two reasons. The first is that I love Caribbean food, and the second is that I have already had lunch and know I can get a small thing to taste without overeating or wasting food.
I order an aloo pie. I’ve had this dish before and it’s pretty good. The owner takes a fried bun, slices it open and puts spiced potatoes in (imagine a thinner version of what is inside of a dosa), coriander chutney, tamarind chutney, and then after asking if I want it spicy, adds some hot sauce as well before wrapping it. I walk literally ten feet away before unwrapping this bit of deliciousness like it’s Christmas morning.
It’s really messy and as delicious as I had hoped. I wish I was going to spend a few more hours here so I could come back for a full meal for dinner. I’m particularly intrigued by something on the menu that’s called a “Wedding Paratha (Buss Up Shut)”. It goes for $12.00 (my aloo pie went for $2) – it’s one of the most expensive items on the menu. It must be big because they also sell a smaller one. I just looked online and I think I have an idea of why it’s so expensive. Check this out!
Edited to add – it’s incredibly sad and shocking that just about 90 minutes after I left, this happened there:
I leave the flea market and head out. It’s time to find an actual library. Fortunately there’s one just a ten minute streetcar ride away. It isn’t long before it arrives.
And then it’s off to the Dufferin / St. Clair library. Just ten minutes away and the neighbourhood feels a bit different. There’s been a bit more gentrification and it increases the further east and closer to the subway I go.
The library is less than a half a block from the intersection I was dropped off at.
This library, while it has a modern facade, is fairly old, having opened originally in 1921. The inside is filled with beautiful murals painted by George A. Reid, principal of the Ontario College of Art, and by two of his former students, Lorna Claire and Doris McCarthy.
The library itself has a few cozy places to sit.
And it is relatively large.
Off of this room there is a Teen area that was populated with mostly people above the age of 30 who were taking advantage of the large windows letting the sun in. A children’s section is on the other side that is almost as large as the main area.
Overall, though, I’m not as fond of this one. It feels rather bland. The book selection is small making this more of a library to send your holds to if you live nearby than a library to linger in and search. My usual areas to look are relatively short on interesting selections. The 300’s in the Dewey Decimal catalog (social sciences) seem to have nothing of interest to me and the low 900’s (Travel) is positively tiny and mostly filled with travel guides instead of the travel fiction I love. I did find Silverland, A Winter Journey Beyond the Urals.
I take that book on the streetcar home with me and she talks about her train trip from England toward Siberia where she is detained by customs in Belarus and sent back to Poland to get a visa. At first I find myself getting quite jealous. I love travel and adventure and Dervla Murphy is one of my heroes in this respect, having managed to spend fifty years of her life traveling, mostly by bike and supporting it by the proceeds of her travel writing. If there were ever a dream job for me, that is the one. And then I thought a bit more realistically and it made me resolve to think about ways in which I could have more local adventures and ride my bike a bit more often – outside of the virtual world of Zwift. Maybe some more cycling-related Appreciating My Own Backyard posts will happen. After all, I may not be able to travel the world all the time but Toronto does a pretty great job of bringing the world to me.
If you’d like to read about more of Toronto’s awesome libraries and the neighbourhoods they’re in, visit the Toronto by Library page.
19 thoughts on “Regal Heights Neighbourhood: Dufferin/St. Clair Library”
Cupcakes and pie, yummy…and great city too…and yes alot of culture so keep sharing, it’s great to see
Thanks! I’m glad you liked it. I didn’t even notice that odd coincidence – cupcakes and pie that are both not what one would immediately expect (but still delicious!)
Wow! You are on a mission… How many libraries are you planning to visit?
Books and food are two things I love dearly and you have given me a taste of both in this post. I like old libraries more than the modern contemporary ones unless they have some elements of architecture. That Aloo pie looked really delicious :))
I have visited your site after many days and found lots of changes starting from the title to URL to the layout. Looks like you are into adventure spree – from new libraries to new sites. All the best for your adventures 😀
Thanks, Preeti. Yes, I really am on something of a mission though it never occurred to me in quite that wording until now but yes, it is an excellent description.
There are 100 libraries in Toronto and I want to see them all. The great thing about going to see them is that it takes me to so many new and interesting places throughout the city that I wouldn’t otherwise go. And when I go there I end up seeing (and eating!) so many interesting things.
Thanks for stopping by and commenting!
Libraries always fascinate us. We have many libraries here with interesting looks too.. Have fun hopping libraries, Todd
Wow. Take care in those flea markets. Interesting day.
I know, right? But really, most of the city is completely safe. But like anywhere, you never know when something is going to happen.
What a wild realization with that mapping. I am afraid I would learn what I already suspect—very repetitive movements.
Oh yes – I can see that for me too. There are some areas I seem to go to ALL the time. I think that’s been true all my life. Just travelling back to Vermont, particularly on the last couple of bicycle trips there, made me realize that while I lived in that area for 16 years, there were whole parts of the state I had never once visited. Not just little gaps like in the map of Toronto but most of the northeast section and almost all of the south, particularly those areas not serviced by an interstate. I think the same sort of rationale is true in my local map. Most of the areas that come up red here are served by frequent transit, often subway. Other areas take more time or effort to get to and so I’ve not gone there. Or maybe I just never had a reason to go there ever – just as I never had a reason before to go to Morrisville , Vermont until I happened to visit it because it was a good stopping place between two cycling destinations I had.
I think you would see the library, my gym, Whole Foods and Stop and Shop!
Hmm, interesting! I don’t think I’ve had Banh Cuon before. Looks yummy! Duck & Bamboo soup does sound great!
What a bummer the first library was closed but so exciting you found a flea market with a food court!! That Aloo Pie looks so good! I’d love to try that!
That’s terrifying the man got shot riiiight after you left… talk about perfect timing!!
Yeah. It was a pretty great day. I read more about the food and it said the cupcakes were a Khmer dish so I wonder if you may have seen those before. They were my favourite part of the meal. I could have had a meal of those I think!
I feel so lucky my timing was what it was. Imagine if I had eaten then explored the library and then gone over. My timing might have been just wrong. I can’t complain that it was closed. It might have saved me a very scary time…or worse!
I think I have seen those cupcakes before, my dad’s wife made them but I was not really a fan. 😛 We dipped them in a sweet fish sauce dip? I think..
Right!! I am so glad you are safe and were out of there at the perfect time!!!
Yes! I think those are the ones. There was a sweet fish sauce dip with those and I loved it. The cupcakes soaked up the dip and it was so good!
I’m glad you left when you did. ❤
You'll have to go back for the wedding paratha when the library renovations are done!
Thanks for putting me back virtually in Toronto- one of my favorite cities! I played a lot of music there in the early 2000s and have tons of truly great friends there. Love your posts!
I’m glad you enjoyed it. Welcome back :-). Nice to have you here.
Mmm your lunch looked delicious and you brought back memories of when my family lived in Trinidad with your aloo pie as I loved those as a kid. My mum used to make them when we were young until she started on the health kick as they are fried. *lol* When my mum would take my brother and me to the Woolworths store in downtown Trinidad, we would get to choose a book (I’ve always loved reading!) and we would stop at the food counter and I always had an aloo pie and a raspberry juice drink. I haven’t had one in years now…*looks up recipes* 🙂
What a wonderful memory. I remember Woolwoorth’s counters – what a throwback.
As for fried foods – sometimes we have to feed our body and we have to eat healthy foods. Other times we have to feed our souls.