Monday is a holiday in the US and so I have a three day weekend here. I had considered a bike ride but then an idea popped in to my head. I haven’t been hiking in years. And so it is that I find myself riding back to Smuggler’s Notch and going back up the hill, this time in a car.
I park the car at the trailhead of the last hike I took in Vermont up Hell Brook Trail to the summit of Mount Mansfield, the highest mountain in the state. It is the steepest ascent but also really rewarding as it is also the shortest distance to the top of any trail.
The trail doesn’t hold back. Right away, you have to find your way across a stream using stepping stones. Then the ascent begins right away.
A trail this steep, can’t be made of dirt and so the climbs are all on rocks. The first two times I did this trail back in the late 80’s, it was late summer and the weather was very dry. The trail also was dry. Today, though, I’m not so lucky. In some places the trail is a stream. If I’m lucky it’s mud, if I’m not it’s slippery rock.
It isn’t long before I realize my relatively new trail running shoes are not up to the task. They’re great in mud and dirt but are like ice skates on the rock and even worse on wet, slippery rock. I didn’t anticipate this – last time I did this I wore sneakers.
My heart pounds as the pitch of the hill I’m climbing is like a steep staircase. In some cases it is so steep that you have to use your hands as well to pull yourself up. It’s climbing more than walking in many places.
This is the hardest hike I’ve done, and in many ways is harder than most rides I’ve done. I feel like I’ve worked as hard as I have on 100 kilometre rides. But it’s also really beautiful and peaceful. It’s completely worth the effort. Surprisingly, the further up I go, the easier it seems to get. But still I find myself having to really push myself to avoid taking too many breaks to “enjoy the view” (read: catch my breath). On a couple of stops, though, I do take a couple of videos.
Eventually at the last scramble above I meet a couple descending. One of them turns to me and says: “Just a warning: There’s quite a bit of snow up there. We turned back.” He tells me the snow isn’t so deep but it’s making it slippery and hiding holes that might break a leg. I’m pretty sure at this point I’m not going to make the summit today but I do really want to see the snow. And so I climb further up.
Soon I get to another sheer face. A group of hikers from Quebec scale it relatively quickly but I’m struggling to find any handholds or footholds that my shoes will stick to.
Finally I try the left side. It’s wet but maybe there’s enough traction to manage. I get up a couple of feet and then both shoes lose grip and I slide. Then I move closer to the middle where the other hikers went. I take a few steps up and am making some progress when suddenly both feet let go again. My right knee slams in to the granite face of the mountain and pain shoots up from my knee. My hand also takes a hit breaking my fall. And then I slide back down a good six feet. I stand there for a minute assessing the damage and deciding what the next steps will be.
In the end I decide that my next adventure will not be “Participate in a mountain rescue!”. I don’t know if my knee will get worse or how hard the route will be. Originally my plan was to descend a much gentler trail but now I would have to go backwards down a lot of these same small cliff faces. It is really time to go.
And so down I go. It is less taxing aerobically but definitely more effort in other ways. My mind has to think hard about where I place my feet. My small muscles in my legs that keep my ankle steady have to work harder when I land to avoid falling. Roots that were great handholds are now trip hazards or worse, could break a leg if I had good momentum and got a leg stuck in one. Even with all of the stress, pain, and exhaustion I am happy. The views are far and green, the sound of the waterfalls follow me wherever I go.
As I descend a few times I nearly fall but catch myself, sometimes by grabbing a tree with the spiky stump of a tiny branch piercing my hand. Finally, just a few hundred metres from the car I slip again. One leg is headed way down the mountain, the other is stuck under a root just as I was afraid of. I strain to stop and manage to do it. I also manage to smack my left knee on the granite. I wryly say “There, now they match.” to nobody at all.
By the time I get to the car I’m tired and my shoes and pants are wet and covered in mud. I put my jacket down on the seat before I get in to protect the rental car’s upholstery. When I sit down in the drivers seat my knees hurt. I look at my hands as I grab the steering wheel and notice that they’re filthy and scratched. Despite all that – or perhaps because of it, I have had the time of my life.
17 thoughts on “Going to Hell…Brook”
Looks like one hell of a hiking experience. I’m surprised why they don’t warn one at the start of a trail.
For sure. That said, if I were to go in a month or two it would likely be fine. The guidebooks do tell some about it, especially about how steep it is. The water was a surprise though – and what made it impossible to go further.
It really was obvious when starting what it was going to be like, though. Within 200 meters you needed to use both hands to climb. So maybe that was the warning 😀
Good that things went well for you, Todd!
Great adventure…Heading to hell!
Thanks! Who knew one went UP to hell?!?
That is the kind of hike you hope you don’t get stranded alone. I am glad you got down safely.
I was thinking that as I was slowly making my way down. No worries about someone finding me – there were lots of folks there – but getting out with a serious injury would’ve been a challenge.
I was thinking about that woman who was lost on Maui for 17 days when I responded to your post.
Yeah – that was pretty awful. No worries about that here. Signed in to the trail register (along with a good dozen others). Good cell service. But man, how do you carry a fully grown man with a broken leg down 600 metres of near vertical slippery terrain? That’s the question I was pondering (but didn’t want to find the answer to!)
They really struggled to get her out of her predicament even though she was quite little.
Nice photos. I haven’t been there but I’ve been to hell… ‘s canyon, lol. (It’s on the Idaho/Oregon border.)
Wow – Hell’s Canyon looks lovely – Lucky you for having visited.
I guess we can now both say we’ve traveled to hell and back!
Lol, yes we can!
In all seriousness if you haven’t been to Hell’s Canyon and you love to travel its a must do.
That’s a part of the continent I really haven’t seen so one day hopefully I will make it there.
I seriously laughed at the line “it is really time to go.” 😂 Hope you’re all healed up now! Some pain is always worth the adventure!
Ha yes! It’s so true. It was funny, my knees felt better within a day but my legs were sore from the effort for a couple more days beyond that. Clearly I need to do more climbing – maybe start using the stairs in our highrise! 🙂